Beyond being great for general use, it can also be using in climbing, camping, and sailing. People I meet tend to divide into people who are technical and/or good knot tiers, and people who are useless, and the division is far from equal. Resources, How to Buy the Right Survival Kit for Your Family, Improvised Harnesses - Mountaineering Guide, Min Mountaineering Knots - Climbing Guide, Lowering The Victim - Mountaineering Guide. However, its 'security' is very dependent on the type of climbing rope used. So climbers realized that #1010 was jam resistant - in fact it has no known jamming threshold - and so they adopted it for climbing applications. You might think it's silly, but if you can't tie the knot with your eyes closed, you probably shouldn't use it until you can.
The Yosemite Bowline was an attempt to address the insecurity of the simple (#1010) Bowline. Figure eight is starting to annoy me when my hands are tired and I've fallen.
@Greg.Ley The problem is more that I want to get rid of the 8. No objection to the bowline in its various forms, but word of caution on the Yosemite finish – dressed incorrectly, it will invert and become unsafe.
The three knots you listed are all quite suitable for tying in to a sit harness for rock climbing. You would be left with a normal bowline with a really long tail - still very safe.
One for those who are hopeless, and one for those who have strong skills. Butterfly knot. Where failure could cause property damage, injury, or death, seek professional instruction prior to use. What matters most with knots used in life critical applications is security and stability (not MBS yield).
However, and here is the key message to all... you are far better off using a tie-in knot that is inherently secure. That's the main reason for the shift away from the bowline. I like the yosemite bowline because it feels tight and is said to be safe, but I've learned it from the internet and am a bit scared using it because of that. Pick a knot you're very familiar with, check it, and you're done. STEP 1.
Bowlines are also Post Eye Tiable (PET) - the F8 isn't 'PET'.
I would say, dismiss the bowline on a bight since it needs a backup stopper knot to prevent loosening over time so it's not a "complete" knot like the other candidates. There are plenty of practical uses for the Bowline On A Bight Knot, but the most popular reasons for deploying this knot are for emergency situations, rescue scenarios, and climbing purposes. With the standing portion of the rope in your left hand, make a clockwise loop toward the body. Bowline on a Bight, Retraced Through Harness This knot is essentially a bowline on a bight, but it is retraced through the harness. It's a stretch but imagine the working end slipped out of bight that holds it then kept slipping until the nipping turn was gone too.
The bowline-on-a-coil is an expedient tie-in used by climbers when a climbing harness is not available (Figure 4-23). There have been several cases where an incorrectly tired bowline came undone and the result was serious injury or death. No responsibility is accepted for incidents arising from the use of this content. From my personal experience, people either use a double bowline (*) or a double figure 8.
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